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Software & Hardware Guide for FSX

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N1chu View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-30-2013 at 7:57am
Software & Hardware Guide for FSX;

I would like to ask Nick and/or other contributors to the above mentioned guide a question about who I might contact concerning upgrading my desktop to a respectable level in order to run MS FSX. I ran Belarc Advisor on my machine to get a Computer Profile Summary so I could compare my machine with the guide, hopefully to upgrade for FSX. But I have trouble understanding the guide as it applies to my machine.

My question is this... I don't propose to be computer savy, having someone else configure my machine 5 years ago for FSX. That someone is no longer available and I would ask if there are those willing to take my computer profile summary and advise me on how to make it better respond to FSX. It's just the hardware I need help with. I figure once I have the hardware in place I can do all the recommended tweaks/config settings the guide suggests. But I need the help with the hardware upgrade. Yes, the guide lists the recommended components but I fear an upgrade (as opposed to an complete new system) complicates the issue's compatibility concerns. Quite frankly, it frustrating. I have a fear of buying new hardware and learning afterwards that it either doesn't work at all or no better than before due to component constraints. As I wish to save money by upgrading as opposed to purchasing a pre built system, I hope there is help out there.

Thanks for listening,

Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2013 at 11:07am
Your problem just got simplified
 
 
you don't want an upgrade or a patch of hardware..  you would not be impressed with the money spent
 
here is what you want 
 
Buy a 4770K, a single GTX 780, decent SSD high performance drives, perhaps if you need more space then go with 1TB/2TB drives..  more drives are better, and top that off with 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 2400 9-11-11-31 timing memory   you can use 16 too if you need that much for other software.. A FSX system does not need more than 8
 
Corsair and G.Skill make that memory speed and timing.. I would go with G.Skill
 
If you want to clock it and you are willing to do it but only so far, then get the Corsair H100 or 110 liquid cooler, and if you don't like liquid then get the Thermalright Archon SBE-X2 air cooler. Either one will have you clocked, how far is another story
 
You will need a Haswell certified Power supply..  750watt minimum, 850 is fine but no higher on a single GPU system.. Corsair makes Haswell certified PSU's
 
A good tower that allows airflow..  HAF 932 or HAF X..   both great with lots of fans and room
 
 
The motherboard should be a good Asus board..   Asus really got the Haswell CPU locked down well in their BIOS.,.  I can suggest the Z87 Sabertooth or the Z87-DELUXE which comes with onboard Wi-Fi  you need to research the board and make sure it supports all the devices you may have or need but I would firmly stick with Asus z87 products on that.
 
 
 
That's it..  enjoy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2013 at 11:11am
Almost forgot
 
 
If you want a lot of specifics and tips you can follow along as this is developed over the next few days and weeks:
 
 
 
that is not just for clocking.. its for anyone building a Haswell system..  clocked or unclocked
 
 
and there will be a FULL-ON Windows, system and FSX optimizing guide posted soon too. I had to hold off on that till Haswell/780GTX was released and I could verify that hardware
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 6:52am
The Build

I have most everything Nick has suggested to build my Haswell system. Just waiting on my RAM. Yesterday I started mounting the components in the HAF 932 extreme box. The PSU was put in the bottom, anticipating the water cooler install at the top. I did not find any place to mount the cooler that had a corresponding mounting pattern for the screws so figured I just line the screw holes up with the grill holes on the box. I'm not finding a perfect match however... Did I miss something? I'm reviewing the guide again...

Fly Away Simulation sent me the following advertisement which I thought I'd pass along for all to peruse. I'm ignoring it until my system is built and the forum builds opinion on it.

Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 7:04am
The following is an email ad I got from Fly Away simulation;
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Simulator X? Do you want to put the maximum speed in your system and feel
like its blazing fast? Then FSX Booster 2013 is for you!

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View the products/screenshots/purchase here:
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--
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Download the official Fly Away iPhone app:
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One Click Unsubscribe:
http://list.flyawaysimulation.com/lists/?p=unsubscribe&uid=d1fbec29a7a58303678d48967a7bb8a5
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NickN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 7:32am
Snake OIL and not wise
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 7:35am
Roger that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 7:39am
Any suggestions on the mounting of the cooler's radiator?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 7:56am
That part you are going to have to deal with directly. I can not direct anyone online with specific tower construction other than to say make sure it can breathe and get air through the radiator and out of the tower
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 7:58am
Ok. I just thought I might have missed a feature of the tower.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 8:08am
Again.. Cant define that. You have to read the instructions that come with the tower, perhaps check online with the tower manufacture and use of such cooling solutions and well as the manufacture of the liquid system as they usually can help you with that directly. They usually know how their system works with different towers.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 8:32am
Check. I'll do that research on all future questions before hitting the forum. On another note... Just a comment on the Corsair PSU packaging... It comes in a plastic bag, which is in a velvet bag, inside the padded box. And then there is the pouch with a Velcro flap containing the cables! Wow! I showed the velvet bag and the pouch to my wife, thinking Corsair was on a marketing gimic trip, asking her if she might have a use for the stuff. She thinks about it for a minute and says "Its for the old PSU your stuck with when you upgrade." I asked "How so?" And she replies "You put the old PSU in the velvet bag, step out onto the front lawn, swing it over your head and scream like a chicken! It drives away all the evil spirits and makes the new PSU perform better!" Having no comeback, I returned to the build.
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ROFL
 
 
 
One item..   if you are using the corsair PSU with a corsair liquid system their LINK software can be used to monitor the liquid system but I can not tell you how to set that up. It requires a USB 2.0 motherboard plug which means you lose one for the tower itself UNLESS you use a USB3 to USB2 Internal converter cable and make use of the USB3 motherboard port so it leaves the USB2 motherboard port open for the tower front USB connectors
 
Another solution would be to use a internal USB2 hub like this one: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1293/
 
 
Motherboard on-board USB2 plugs into the hub and then you have ports for the tower and the PSU and other devices.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 8:54am
Ok. I'll look at that accommodation to. As I have yet to get a copy of WINDOWS 7 as the OS, and will need web access, and a disc drive for the loading of different features and Internet based software, who knows what USB extras I will also want as time goes on...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2013 at 6:03am
Build is nearly complete. Waiting on internal USB expansion card and Windows 7 Proffessional. Due to arrive next Tuesday. All components as per suggested by Nick. I didn't see any grease for the PCU/water cooler included with either component.(I will NOT fire up the build until it is applied-will look again for it as I could have overlooked it in the packaging.) The RAM arrived yesterday-came with two small fans in a mounting frame that attaches to the RAM rails. I'm still looking at how the frame attaches. The video card has two connectors on the edge of the circuit board which I need to research because I don't know their purpose. The instruction booklet is not helping. Got to check the CD. My guess is its for bridging multiple video boards. Speaking of bridges, the motherboard came with one-haven't got a clue as to where it goes. So some research is in order. The case has a FireWire connection port but all I see so far is a warning not to plug into a USB socket on the motherboard. It just might be that it will not get a connection. I figure another post next week to inform of a completed physical build and then follow the guide and tips as I start to install recommended BIOS settings, OS and diagnostic software for component testing. I am aware of a proper order required such as making a BIOS change BEFORE loading the OS. My intention is to use only the settings available with the motherboard for clocking initially. My short term goal at this point is to verify all components are viable and working to expectations. The diagnostic software should give me that confidence in the system. Then it's only (hopefully) a matter of installing programming (FSX and related) software in a correct configuration.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2013 at 6:15am
The SLi connection at the video card is not used.. just make sure the 2 power ports on the card (8 + 6) are properly terminated with the PSU as well as the 2 motherboard ports.. the large span and the 8 pin up by the CPU socket 
 
 
 
they are up in your general area too so it should arrive quick
 
and be aware, that is not 'grease' or a thick compound. Its different, a liquid base, and is applied like this:
 
 
 
be careful!  it can squirt out in a 'stream' if push that plunger too hard...  it can get on everything and it is highly conductive..   just a small drop, spread it with the applicator and then apply just a 'touch' more and spread it.
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2013 at 6:29am
Will order today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2013 at 6:38am
Do exactly what they show in that video except once the first thin coat is applied, apply a 2nd but with less compound
 
They supply 2 applicators with the kit. You don't have to throw one out after use and can wrap it in some plastic wrap for storage... but be very aware that stuff is a liquid and it will get on everything it touches. It doesn't 'run' as long as its applied right and not too much.
 
and prep the surface with the buff pad and then wipe clean with the alcohol wipe they supply with the kit. You can also use 70% or 90% store bought rubbing alcohol too if you need more than the wipe they give you supplies as their wipe can dry out fast and you can only use it once. The buffing pad they supply can be used over and over.
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2013 at 6:41am
Got it. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2013 at 4:29pm
The Frozen CPU arrived today. I watched the UTube example and have added your advising a second thin coat. I have a couple of questions... First, the stuff says it takes 48 hours to set up. Do I wait that long before the second thinner coat? And is it only applied to the CPU and not the CPU and the water cooler?

I received only one plunger of the stuff, not two as you had mentioned. But I wont need any more than the one tube. Maybe they are no longer running the double package for whatever reason...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2013 at 6:42pm
 
 
Cure time or 'setup' as you called it, occurs with the system running. You don't wait, simply apply the product and install the CPU and then mount the cooling solution.
 
The application of a very small 2nd coat will depend on how much went on in the first coat. If you think you got plenty of it down on the first coat and it has a bit of a 'wet' appearance to it, then one is enough. I simply mentioned the addition of a 2nd based on the video and how much they show went on in the demo.
 
I said there would be two 'applicators' .. the swabs used to spread the compound. There is only one syringe of the product and there is enough in that syringe to repeat the application from scratch as many as 3 times.
 
The product does not have to be cleaned off if for some reason you had to take it back apart. Unlike other compounds it can remain and be added to if needed or simply be re-spread and the cooler remounted.
 
The directions say to only coat the CPU. I don't see any problem with putting an exceptionally thin coat on the cooler block contact face. When I say exceptionally thin it would be nothing like the amount that went on the CPU just a very fine coat so when the two meet one will flow into the other.
 
I cant stress enough the amount of compound we are talking about here is very small. There is enough compound in that one tube to repeat what you are doing about 3 times if you started over from scratch. You would never use the entire amount from one tube in one or even two applications.
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2013 at 7:21pm
I get the concern on the amount to be used. I only had a concern with when the CPU could be married with the water cooler as they listed a " cure" time period (which can raise a question as to when... had they not mentioned the cure time, i would have completed the application and just installed the CPU.) As for termonology concerning what gets called what... An "applicator" is what is used to "apply" the material and usually relates to the vessel in which the material resides. And a Q Tip is just that. Once the material is applied, a Q Tip is used to spread it around. So you can see how I confused the two items as we do not define then in rhe same fashion. I guess the 38 years spent in the fire service indoctrinated me into making very sure everyone understands exactly what meaning is being conveyed, regardless of word or phrase definition, as people can say the same thing and have different meanings. In my line of business, either we get it right or people get hurt. That's why we spend the time and effort on using the incident command system which standardizes most every scenario.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2013 at 7:34pm
understood!
 
Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2013 at 9:58pm
 
 
FYI: The reason I would never refer to the applicator swabs as Q-tips is because they are not Q-tips..   Q-tips will leave fine fibers behind in the compound, the application swabs they provide although look like the classic 'Q-tip' are not the same. So yes, terminology can be confusing. I probably should have used the term 'swab' with 'applicator' and it would have been clearer to you.
 
 
The same type of swabs are used for A/V equipment head cleaning. They don't leave behind fibers like Q-tips will. They have a bonding agent in them that keeps that from happening.
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2013 at 6:42am
Yea, I figured the swabs were of a higher standard that set them apart from the regular J&J Q Tips since I was not cleaning my ears! Glad you mentioned the difference between the two. (I wonder how many have not thought that and used the common Q Tips for cleaning, etc.)?

I'm still having trouble getting one screw to attach the cooler to the board. Don't know why as yet. But once I get past that I will be applying the material and the physical mounting will be done except for the supplied RAM fan's mounting frame which interferes with a needed motherboard socket. The plug for that socket comes straight out from the board and prevents the fan frame from seating where its meant to be. I'm looking at modifying the frame for proper clearance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2013 at 10:51am
Do not use the RAM fan..  its not needed
 
 
That fan is for someone who intends to overclock the memory, it can be discarded
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2013 at 11:01am
Ok, that saves a little work. (I was thinking... If I aimed all the fans to blow in the same direction, swapped out the case feet for wheels and added an extension cord, I might get it to walk across the floor on its own
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirk98 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2013 at 11:10am
Nick, what do you think of ALLOW_SHADER_30=1 ? 

Is shader 3.0 mod bad for FSX as how you see it?

Thanks,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2013 at 11:32am
 
Originally posted by Dirk98 Dirk98 wrote:

Nick, what do you think of ALLOW_SHADER_30=1 ? 

Is shader 3.0 mod bad for FSX as how you see it?

Thanks,
Dirk.


 
 
Off topic for this subject
 
 
It is a completely silly edit unless you are hacking and installing shaders for ATi cards.. Nvidia cards do not need that shader hack nor that edit in the FSX.cfg
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirk98 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2013 at 3:37am
Thanks, didn't know where to ask and I thought my question was not important enough for a separate thread.  Smile

Dirk. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2013 at 8:10pm
The build;

I've got the computer set to power up but ran into a glitch. I went with the GSkill memory suggested but its not on the compatibility list for the motherboard. I need to swap it out for something compatible unless there is a way to get it recognized. Right now I get an error code #55 which reads "no memory" and the LED memory light stays lit-an indication there is something wrong with the memory. It is correctly seated in A-2 & B-2 slots but I tried the other two slots anyway and tried the automatic push button to see if it would recognize-it didn't. So I guess I see if I can exchange it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2013 at 8:19pm
Horse hockey!  Big smile 
 
 That QVL list is not the only memory that runs and there are several users who are running that memory just fine
 
Hit the MEMOK button other motherboard right after you start the boot.. it will TRAIN that motherboard for the memory and then enter the BIOS and select XMP
 
If you are getting codes past that I suspect there could be a memory module that is defective, OR a memory slot and that assumes the CPU went in without bending any pins in the socket.. That CAN force this exact issue as well as a memory slot or memory stick defect.
 
Remove a stick and use ONE in A2 and if that doesn't work swap sticks in A2 and if that fails try one in B2 or A1
 
I can assure you that if you bought the memory I posted there is no compatibility issue
 
 
If you have never installed a CPU into one of these new sockets those pins are exceptionally fragile and if that proc goes in wrong in any way or has to be slid into place that can slightly bend pins in that socket.. its also possible it came from the factory that way.
 
I did that once a long time ago and used a 10x magnifier with a light and could see where the pins were not lined up quite right..  Newegg replaced the board.
 
its also possible you simply got a defective board too..  that's why I would suggest using 1 stick and trying slots with MEMOK pressed
 
if you get a boot in one slot and not the other with the same stick, its the memory slot or the CPU pins, one of the two.
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2013 at 9:13pm
Findings... A single stick in slot B-2 will load. That's either stick. This gives me the code "A2" which is described as IDE Detect. I found it will also work in B-1. So I have proven out both sticks will work. The memory is good. Tomorrow I will unmount the CPU, inspect for any problems such as you mentioned. The fact that neither B-1 or A-1 slots are working causes me to suspect the CPU chip has bent pins (or the same effect as bent pins). I did get into the Bios and set it up for XMP the minute I got a working memory stick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2013 at 9:30pm
Ok that's what I thought!
 
It may not be bent pins and simply be a bad motherboard..  Newegg WILL replace it quickly and I am sorry you had this come up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2013 at 9:52pm
Thanks. I'll see what kind of luck I have tomorrow with the CPU and go from there. True, I am slightly disappointed, anxious to start the CONFIG process, and I find myself looking at the "mighty beast" in admiration, but I'm not going anywhere, there's no rush. I'll let you know what I find.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2013 at 9:57pm
just make sure you if you do find bent pins that you don't make it worse if you try to straiten because Newegg may refuse the return
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2013 at 11:11pm
One last VERY IMPORTANT ITEM
 
I have seen users not check and verify the motherboard backplate STANDOFF mounts and they may get one in the wrong place, OR, the tower manufacture had one or more mounted and the user never removed them before properly placing the motherboard in the tower without any standoffs, marking the correct holes with a fine line sharpie, and then installing the standoff studs in the correct locations that are marked, then mount the board.
 
 
if there is a stud behind that board that is not in the right place that can short the board and cause this too.
 
 
If you don't see any pins that are obviously out of alignment, and believe me, it doesn't take much, reseat the CPU and the cooler and try again using MEMOK
 
If that fails, remove the motherboard and verify there are no out of place standoffs behind that board... if there are, remove them, remount and try again. Such a short could damage the board or it may not, it depends on where the short took place.
 
 
In a case where the board must be returned, say nothing to Newegg about CPU pins, simply tell them the memory tests fine in one slot and another is dead and then tell them it was verified by a certified tech and that the board is defective..  they wont question, they will issue you a UPS return label and then you can send back
 
If you still have it,.. put the CPU socket protective plastic cover back in when you send it back.. you removed that when you installed the CPU.
 
OPTIONAL: They can send you another board right away with a temp charge on the credit card and then will remove that charge when the return arrives..  you can ask about this if you want, as it will cut down on you wait time. I have done that with parts from them and never had a problem.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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N1chu View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote N1chu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2013 at 6:15am
I read all and will chech all. If I can not determine if it is the motherboard or the CPU, I wonder if Newegg will allow both to be returned? After I take a look-see I will call and ask. I didn't see any pins in the CPU or a corresponding socket on the motherboard... Just a bunch of pads, the CPU has two slots on the left and right side of it, which aligns it to the motherboard, making it almost impossible to place it incorrectly. As no forcing was used to mount it, I can't see where I may have caused it to be misaligned. But the first thing I will do is back off on the cooler mounting screws incrementally, apply power, see if I corrected it, if not, turn off and slightly back off more, etc. until I either get a good result or reach the point where the cooler can be removed. Then check and remount the CPU. If that doesn't work, I will inspect the mounting of the motherboard. I used the 9 mounting holes with the standoffs and saw no standoffs already attached to the motherboard or case. (That would cause me to think the case or motherboard had been a return item that was poorly inspected before they allowed it to pass inspection and re-sell it as new. None of my components came with any notice of "refurbishment". I will post later this morning with results.

Thanks Nick, your considerable knowledge is appreciated and I ask if there is some way I can show my appreciation... You have replied in a very timely fashion to ALL my posts and don't think I haven't realized the expended time and effort that went into those replays.

Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andre77ab Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2013 at 8:18am
The best that i can get for my HW 4770K with Asus Deluxe Z87, replacing my Corsair 1866 9-10-9 are  http://www.corsair.com/en/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-65v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m2a2400c10.html?___store=en&___from_store=it < ="application/x-dap-" id="DAPPlugin" style="visibility: collapse">

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NickN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2013 at 10:07am
Originally posted by N1chu N1chu wrote:

mount it, I can't see where I may have caused it to be misaligned. But the first thing I will do is back off on the cooler mounting screws incrementally, apply power, see if I corrected it,
Bill
 
 
That WONT do anything, that CPU must come back out completely, look at the socket pins with a magnifier and a light and see if you notice any rows or lines really out of place and verify it
 
 
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