Hi Nick,

I know that you've been busy outside the FS-world and hope you get to enjoy a long Memorial day weekend.

I pulled the trigger on a new i7 920 (d0 stepping) and associated parts earlier this week so guess what I'll be doing over the weeking - geeking 

Anyway, before the hacking-mess on the AVSIM hardware forum, you had a fairly recent, nice overview, post of the i7 OC settings that you prefer.  I have looked around elsewhere but keep recalling that particular post and since I have used the rest of your advice so often, I wish I had access to that specific i7 OC post.  Do you by chance have a copy of it you could repost here?  I had just bookmarked that post but not copied it before the hack. 

I found some of your settings on the last page of this local thread here: http://www.simforums.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=28606 but not nearly as inclusive (as best as I can recall).  The one thing I remember from that thread was the fact that I had previously overclocked and stabilized my builds with only Windows installed and then installed FS and addons.  Whereby you had mentioned that you install and configure everything before OC'ing.

I want to try your method this time and to do that, do I just basically choose 'Auto' for most BIOS settings (except specific advertised RAM timings) for the non-oc portion of the build?  I have referenced some the OC'ers sites but they done't have a singular goal of FS performance as your guidance does.

BTW, I wound up ensuring a d0 stepping 920 proc by ordering it from www.antaresdigital.com (Edison, NJ) and paid the extra $5 for the d0 gaurentee; still come out a few bucks cheaper than Newegg and the site was recommended on a few of the OC'ers forums.

New Parts:
Intel i7-920 2.66GHz LGA 1366 8MB Cache CPU (SLBEJ - d0)
ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
mushkin Redline 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory - Retail (extrawide HSs - 3 slots max)
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V
Scythe MUGEN-2 SCMG-2000 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler - Retail
Scythe SY124020L 40mm Case Fan - Retail (NB fan)

Existing Parts:
EVGA 01G-P3-1281-AR GeForce GTX 285 1GB 512-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail
Creative - XFi XtremeGamer Pro 5.1
Antec 900 Case
3Ware - 9650SE-4LPML PCIe SATA Controller
WD Raptor 150GB (OS - Lane1 - Fixeddisk)
WD Velociraptor 150GB ea x2 (FSX - Lane 2 & 3 - Raid0)
WD Caviar 320GB (Archives - Lane4 - Fixeddisk)
Sony DVD ROM

As far as I am aware there is no need for a chip cooler.. the NB is in the CPU

Did you verify for sure the P6T will work with the 3ware card? There is something in the back of my mind that says it wont.

ASUS P6T DELUXE V2 Template 920 4GHz DDR3 1600 6-7-6-18


JumperFree Configuration Settings
AI Overclock tuner: MANUAL
CPU Ratio Setting: 20x
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech:  DISABLED
Intel (R) Turbo Mode Tech: DISABLED
BLCK Frequency: 200
PCIE Frequency: 100
DRAM Frequency: 1600
UCLK Frequency: 3200Mhz  always 2 x DRAM FREQUENCY

QPI Link Data Rate: (AUTO SHOULD WORK) **


QPI Link Data Rate: NOTE: AUTO usually works fine however higher is faster but it may also be unstable.. find stable highest setting or leave on AUTO


DRAM Timing Control:


==============================
NOTE: CHART FOR MEMORY SETTINGS in CPUz to BIOS:

CPUz VALUE  - BIOS LIST = VALUE

CAS# Latency (CL) - DRAM CAS# LATENCY = 6
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD) - DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay = 7
RAS# Precharge (tRP) - DRAM RAS# PRE TIME = 6
Cycle Time (tRAS) - DRAM RAS# ACT TIME=18
===========================


1st Information :

CAS# Latency: 6
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay: 7
DRAM RAS# PRE Time: 6
DRAM RAS# ACT Time: 18
DRAM RAS# to RAS# Delay: AUTO
DRAM REF Cycle Time: AUTO
DRAM Write Recovery Time: AUTO
DRAM Read to Precharge Time: AUTO
DRAM FOUR ACT WIN Time: AUTO
DRAM Back-To-Back CAS# Delay: AUTO

2nd Information :

DRAM Timing Mode: 1N (same as CMD 1T in CPUz)
DRAM Round Trip Latency on CHA: AUTO
DRAM Round Trip Latency on CHB: AUTO
DRAM Round Trip Latency on CHC: AUTO

3rd Information :

DRAM WRITE To READ Delay (DD): AUTO
DRAM WRITE To READ Delay (DR): AUTO
DRAM WRITE To READ Delay (SR): AUTO
DRAM READ To WRITE Delay (DD): AUTO
DRAM READ To WRITE Delay (DR): AUTO
DRAM READ To WRITE Delay (SR): AUTO
DRAM READ To READ Delay (DD): AUTO
DRAM READ To READ Delay (DR): AUTO
DRAM READ To READ Delay (SR): AUTO
DRAM WRITE To WRITE Delay (DD): AUTO
DRAM WRITE To WRITE Delay (DR): AUTO
DRAM WRITE To WRITE Delay (SR): AUTO

CPU Voltage: FIND LOWEST STABLE VALUE - 4GHz typically 1.35-1.42v but can be lower
CPU PLL Voltage: AUTO (there are stability settings for high clocks)
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage: 1.35-1.40: SET TO 1.35
IOH Voltage: AUTO
IOH PCIE Voltage: AUTO
ICH Voltage: AUTO
ICH PCIE Voltage: AUTO
DRAM Bus Voltage: 1.65 to 1.70 MAX - Typically 1.66
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA: AUTO
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA: AUTO
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB: AUTO
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB: AUTO
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC: AUTO
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC: AUTO


Load Line Calibration: ENABLED
CPU Differential Amplitude: AUTO (note: .800mv may stabilize higher clock)
CPU Clock Skew: AUTO  (100ps if used to stablize clock)
CPU Spread Spectrum: DISABLED
IOH Clock Skew : AUTO (100ps if used to stablize clock)
PCIE Spread Spectrum: DISABLED


Advance CPU Settings
CPU Ratio Setting: 20x
C1E Suppport: DISABLED
Hardware Prefetcher: ENABLED
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch: ENABLED
Intel® Virtualization Tech: DISABLED
CPU TM Function: (ENABLED = PROTECTED - DISABLED = ALLOW FULL FUNCTION WITHOUT PROTECTION) Typically DISABLED
Execute Disable Bit: DISABLED
Intel (R) HT Techology: DISABLED (ENABLED FOR APPLICATIONS THAT USE HYPERTHREAD -WILL HEAT PROC)
Active Processor Cores: ALL
A20M: DISABLE
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech: DISABLED
Intel (R) Turbo Mode Tech: DISABLED
Intel (R) C-STATE Tech: DISABLED

Oh, I had read in some of the forums that an additional fan could be mounted on the NB HS.  I then read the manual for the P6T Deluxe V2 and indeed, on page 2-40 (section 2.9) it talks about removing two screws on the NB, and installing two mounting-posts (included) which supports a 40mm fan.  So I bought it.

I treid to copy-n-past the exact page from the manual but friggin' Asus have starting locking their PDFs whereby you can't directly copy any of the content.

Understood and thanks for setting me staight as to where exactly where the NB is located.  As for "uberclocking on dry ice", you never know what I might try if I start consuming enough 'beverages' while OC'ing, LOL...  

Just got the parts off the front-door step and I've already got the FSX server ripped apart.  Time for a break and then start mounting new parts...  

BTW, I can't believe how heavy the Mushkin RAM is.  The three stick must (honestly) weigh the better part of  2 lbs. 

 Yes,.. i7 is the easiest proc to clock

use OCCT and the 1hr test

use REALTEMP 3.0 or above to verify <80c

Set the temp in OCCT 1hr test to 80c

Prime is no longer a stress test... you need a 4 core test that works the northbidge inthe proc too

Hi Nick,

Just a little feedback.  After a full 5 days of re-integration of WinXP_x64, FSX, and all the add-ons, cleaning-up, defragging, backing-up, and drive-imaging, I was finally able to run a few OCCT tests.  With your settings above and my d0 proc, I was tripping the OCCT 80 degrees C alarm within a few minutes.  I then lowered the CPU volts to 1.30 and the QPI volts to 1.35.  OCCT then ran the 1-hour test @ about 78 degrees.  I may even try lower volts as some other folks have had luck at 1.28 volts and below to get 4GHz in other forums.

I'm really happy with the ease of OC'ing and I'm now getting the temp in spec.  I don't know that the HSF is the best or perhaps I didn't get such a good seating as it required mounting using screws from the underside of the MB; which will really suck if I want to remove it, I'll have to remove the entire MB just to get at the lockdown screws.  Anyway, attached is my 1-hour OCCT test of core-0 and I'm now re-running Memtest after lowing the aforementioned voltages.  (EDIT - appearently I don't permission to post a pic in this forum)

FWIW, the 3ware card works great in the black universal PCIe slot and I forced it to 16x/8x/8x in the BIOS even though the 4PML card only needs 4x.  It was 8x or 1x.

Also, for anyone else reading this thread, there is an issue with Logitech G11/15 keyboards and the Asus P6T Deluxe MB's whereby they don't get scanned fast enough during the post sequence and a 'Keyboad Not Detected' may be noted.  My personal fix is that if I unplug my Saitek Yoke from USB port on the back of the PC, then the Scan happens quick enough to pickup the keyboard.  Other forums have noted this same issue and mention that you can bump the USB bus to 'Full' (12MB) which will also allow enough time for the keyboard to get scanned; not really a solution for all those great USB 2.0 devices though.  I'm hopping Asus will release another BIOS to fix this in the near term.

I think I'll spend the day tomorrow (Memorial Day) to just climb in the cockpit and fly 

I hope everyone has a happy Memorial Day holiday.

With kind regards,

Just a quick follow-up.  Regarding the issue of the Logitech G11 or G15 keyboards not being detected during POST on the P6T Deluxe MBs, it turns out that if you have any kind of USB hub installed, it screws-up the USB device scanning causing the 'Keyboard Not Found' error during POST.

I have a Saitek Yoke, which is nothing more than a unpowered USB hub, which caused the issue to appear for me as well.  I could unplug the yoke and then my G11 keyboard would be scanned fast enough for the Delete key to get me into the BIOS.

The solution is to use a USB expansion plate on the back of the PC and plug the Logitech keyboard and mouse into the USB expansion plate.  Then plug the USB explanion plate into one of the USB ports along the bottom edge of the MB.  I think my keyboard and mouse are now using USB ports 11 & 12 and I no longer have to unplug the yoke to get into the BIOS.

Hi,

Well my upgrade was from an overclocked E8500 running at 4GHz with 4GB of RAM and a EVGA 9800GTX.  The FPS counter in FSX is only relative so you must  be subjective.  Also, I run the advance aircraft such as PMDG, at complex add-on airports such as ImagineSim's Atlanta Heartsfield Intl with 100% custom MRAI and WoAI aircraft; every gate is full of good quality, low poly AI aircraft.  In this example, I went from 9 or 10 FPS (panning outside the aircraft with all AI in-view) to 17 to 22 FPS and smooth.  I do run the FPS_Limiter tool and have it locked at 30 FPS.  When outside the dense airpsace, my FPS lock at 30 and stay there, regardless of the scenery or clouds.  Another thing I notice flying a big-iron at FL350, is the UTX and GEX scenery below, set to 7cm on the slider, is crisp and clear, full resolution, out to about 5 or 10 miles from the aircraft, and then it decreases in LOD levels further out from that, as it should.  No popping of scenery LOD levels are noticed either.  Most of my sliders are in-line with the NickN FSX Tuning Post pinned at the top of this forum.

On my FSX Server rig, I run FSXsp2 in DirectX9 with mostly PMDG, LvL-D, and Flight1 aircraft, with add-on airports such as FSDreamTeam, ImagineSim, SimWings, etc.  For Scenery I run UTX, GEX, SceneryTech, FSGenesis, REX, MRAI and WoAI.  For utilities, I run FSBuild2, FSIUPC4, WideFS7 and so on.

On the FSX Client rig, I run ASA, Radar Contact, FS Commander, FS Flight Keeper and AI-Smooth over the WideClient or SimConnect-Client pipes on a GigE-LAN between the two boxes.

Everything is fluid, regardless of the scenery-load.  It was nice on my OC E8500, now it's solid and looks twice as good as FS9 ever did.  Bear in mind, this is a dedicated rig specifically built and tweaked for one single purpose - FSX.  I use NickN's advice in almost all instances and find his information invaluable and totally worth the effort.

One of the best things I think I did on this particular upgrade is spent the longer-dollar on the very specific Mushkin RAM at the top of this post.  DDR31600 lowend RAM is running about $100.  The very top-end DDR3-2000 RAM is running around $450.  I spent around $230 for this 6GB 6/7/6/18 DDR3-1600 RAM and it overclocked beautifully.  I haven't even started playing around with reducing the timings to see how fast I can push it.  Bear in mind, this particular Mushkin Redline model will only fit three alternate slots; you can-not install 6 sticks of this stuff as the heat-spreaders are too wide.

I am a cost-conceous father of three and I don't throw my money away.  I take the time to perform cost-to-benefit analysis, look for price-points, sales, and free shipping.  But at the same time, FS is my hobby and I do perform major upgrades like this about every 12 to 18 months.  My family benefits from my down-grade parts, spread-out to their computers and I've even managed to  build a few older comptuers for several nephews recently.  I beleive the 920 (d0) will not drop significanly in price in the near future and now was the time to get the performance and longevity at the current price point.

I hope this attempts to answer your question.